A Cave in Dwarahat range, Himalayas

Have you had an experience of living in the Himalayas, the tallest and youngest mountain range in the world? Countless magical stories, breathtaking views and mystical sitings across centuries make Himalayas one of the most sought-after regions in the world attracting spiritual seekers from all across the world. In this blog post, I want to share one of many mystical experiences during my stay in the Himalayas.

In July of 2019, I woke up very early from a dream where I saw a photo of a yogi not many know about. I had read about Him in the book called ‘Autobiography of a Yogi’ but did not find much information about him anywhere else on the internet. He was popularly known as Mahavatar Babaji and I began enquiring about Him in the region. One of my local friends informed me that he had heard of his cave somewhere near Ranikhet but the exact location wasn’t known to him. I started researching and called up one of my uncles who was an expert on the mountain roads in this region to help me find the cave. I am not sure about what the pull was but I had to try. A few days later uncle and my parents decided to help me explore. It’s always merrier when family comes along for spiritual expeditions. :) After crossing the gorgeous endless green patches of the Ranikhet region and doing some photography, we finally reached the Dwarhat range. There were no signages but a few locals we had met told us about some interesting stories along the way. Some said Babaji is sometimes seen in the region in his subtle body and the others talked about Pandukholi as the most popular landmark near the cave. Pandukholi is an iconic place from Mahabharat according to which it was one of the hiding places for the Pandavas during their period of exile. My uncle being an expert on the road, was patiently driving along the extremely treacherous roads of the region stopping by to speak to the locals. A thing about small towns in India is that people are very friendly and they genuinely want to help. Sometimes, they give wrong directions because their desire to help overpowers their need to be correct. I find that very amusing and confusing! Travelers therefore are recommended to research as much as possible about the roads and directions when traveling to the mountains.

We finally reached the Dwarhat range which was adjacent to the Dunagiri mountain where Sanjeevani, the medicinal plant was found. According to another epic Hindu tale, Ramayana, Lord Hanuman had uprooted the entire mountain range to carry this plant that had eventually cured the fatally injured Lakshmana in the war with Lanka to save Ma Sita. The mountain sits there protected by multiple renowned temples and the Dwarhat range. As we went closer to our destination, the car had to be parked and the remaining path had to be trekked. On our way up, we met a woman who seemed to be guarding and greeting the visitors coming to visit the cave. She was in her 50s and was living a very simple life with her family. She confirmed that there are a few people who visit this cave and that Babaji usually speaks to her through the winds or rain — it sounded crazy but that’s a devotee in love with her guru! She instructed one of her sons and her dog to guide us through the mildly difficult trek.

Finally, after a 45-minute-long trek, we reached the cave that looked very ancient. The cave was mentioned in ‘Autobiography of a Yogi’ as a reference to a place where Lahiri Mahasaya (guru of Swami Sri Yukteshwar Giri who was the guru to Sri Paramhansa Yogananda) was initiated into Kriya Yoga by Mahavatar Babaji in 1861. This is the yoga technique which was then carried to America thereby making it accessible to a common man. When I reached that spot, I was ecstatic and went inside to sit in silence. What stood out was that it was a simple place with no altar but a cool cave that was reverberating with the kind of energy that quietens the mind and deepens the meditation of the seeker. After spending a couple of hours, we decided to trek back to where my family was happily chit-chatting with the lady who had prepared a freshly cooked meal in her clay oven and served us with immense love not knowing whether we would ever meet again. She blessed us all and whispered in my ear that she would see me again. I touched her feet and we headed back to our apartment in Bhowali.

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A few years later, in 2022, I made a solo trip to Nainital where I was once again drawn to visit the cave. A local friend of mine mentioned his desire to visit as well so we went again. On the way to Dwarhat, he showed me the Buransh flowers that the locals ate as a veggie. I ate those raw along the way before we finally reached the same spot again. I needed to snack and what better than raw organic plants! As I reached the starting point of the trek, the same lady welcomed us with an open arm and said, ‘I knew you would come again.’ She remembered me! I was touched by her hospitality and kindness once again, went for the trek, meditated, inhaled the breathtaking views of the region, ate her delicious meal and left by the evening. During our drive back, my friend and I were quiet, and content, and did not feel the need to be chatty.

Few things to keep in mind if you are planning to visit this place:

1. People in the region are very kind. Please reciprocate the gesture so the high vibration can be maintained as it has been the case for many centuries.

2. Please don’t throw your trash on the road. Instead, throw it in a trash can.

3. You may visit the famous Dunagiri temple that is close to the Dwarhat range and is known to be one of the Shakta Pithas.

4. Drive safe and avoid monsoons since the region is prone to landslides.

5. This blog has some recommendations on how to reach the cave.

5. Most important: Enjoy yourself and keep it simple! You can also read it here.